Bregaglia, with its three alpine valleys Forno, Albigna and Bondasca, is every Although the valleys differ, they all offer a great choice of climbing walls, with. A lot of rock climbing can be accessed by a Swiss cable car to a dam. you can haul up a pile of gear and bivvy to get. a few days climbing done. Swiss Rock: granite Bregaglia. Author Chris Mellor Published Void () ISBN Review. + page guide book to rock climbing in the Albigna.

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Neil took the lead.

The Via Cassin bregagliia, or simply “Cassin”, is now a frequently-ascended but much sought-after “tick” for the Alpine climber. Not sure if there is anything better in English the Swiss plaisir guides cover the area too. With Pre-Orderyou can purchase the latest items added to our store in advance of them arriving with us.

Mountaineering and Climbing – Bregaglia Engadin Turismo

It bregagila about one and half hours to the base of the North Ridge, from which there is a short abseil to the ledge giving the”Attaque Direct” to the Diedre Rebuffat; the original start via the Cengalo Glacier is not longer viable due to its retreat and generally diabolical climmbing. The dates we provide are based on indications given by our suppliers. About 3 hr hike from bregaglja. Can you get away with microspikes on snow fields and still do the good stuff?

In reply to Mushin: Rock Boulder Aid Ice Mixed 3rd 4th 5. Being hit by a storm whilst in these chimneys would be a disaster – drowning could be a distinct possibility. Dan Affsprung – on 02 Jun The corner was still damp as the morning sun crept down the face, and the climbing felt hard for a mere F5a.

Bregaglia Climbing 2018: Sciora Badile PDF

It was 4am in the Refuge and we tried to cram down some bread and jam. Dan Affsprung – on 17 May There are many other great routes in the area if you prefer some more solitude.


In reply to alasdair Mar 23, Beta: Add New Photo Photo Photo copy. All clmibing other teams had now disappeared and I felt very isolated on this vast face.

Piz Badile, North-E Wall. Dan Affsprung – on 18 May You can’t go wrong either way I think. Activities Hiking Cross country skiing Mountaineering and Climbing Further summer and winter activities For the family Climbijg for groups and didactic path.

The face kept coming at us until the very last, with another pitch culminating in a strenuous pull onto the ridge. By Chris Mellor, the author of “Granite Bregaglia”. The Climibng and Sasc Fura huts are considered the ideal points of departure for climbing these granite giants.

Heike – on 18 May Post edited at At least 2L of water each and plenty of easily accessible snacks. The weather now seemed to be holding off and Neil ran out another 60m at about F5b. Alpinism for Awareness May Chasing the Very Bloody Ephemeral: Info Main Title My message Close.

Showcase climbing routes on your site. In reply to Lloydfletch: Sciora Badile PDF is. The swiss buses are very reliable though. Both file types contain the same information but the photo quality is much higher in the High Res.

The first and most obvious thing to point out that it is, by any standards, a long route: But a lot of the good climbinh starts in Swtizerland!

Classic Climbing Routes at Bergell Mountain Project’s determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area. After a slog up to the twee but friendly and pricey Sasc Fura refuge at m we made a reconnaissance of the approach to the start of the route from the base of the North ridge at m. The now standard approach is non-glacial, the route is pure rock-climbing and the rock generally sound, thus objective dangers are minimal- apart from the clibming.


Once at the summit we considered making a dash for the nearby bivouac refuge but, almost miraculously, the storm clouds moved away to the North and evening sunshine greeted us at the summit monument which was still fizzing with static electricity.

Fixed protection is limited to pitons, although now most bregagliq are equipped with double bolt belays. About 45 minutes from there to the Gianetti. The topos in the Alpine Club guide and the Bregaglia Climbing guide available online describe the original route, which has now been superseded with a version featuring longer pitch lengths and an alternative finish that avoids the grotty rock of the original.

Dan Affsprung – on 20 May Well, the huts are great, but very expensive.

UKC Forums – Bregaglia Info

After a steep F5b pitch we ran out around three rope lengths all the way to the Cengia Mediana, the large ledge at mid height. However, any climber who has seen the Badile and the perfect line of the Cassin will be drawn again and again to pondering its ascent. Thick clumps of cloud were jostling around us, obscuring everything at one moment then revealing surrounding tops.

We heard ominous rumblings across the valley and could sense electricity in the air as we simul-climbed the last of the ridge to the summit in about an hour.

In the Forno and Albigna region, there are over thirty beautiful peaks waiting to be scaled. Oldest Newest Oldest Best Beta. Aim for conversational ability in at least three languages.